City Improbable by Khushwant Singh
Delhi is a city of paradoxes, where ancient monuments coexist with modern malls, humble dhabas stand alongside upscale restaurants, and affluent apartment buildings neighbor sprawling slums. This diversity is beautifully captured in the book, offering insights from a range of perspectives including those of Amir Khusrao, Sam Miller, Ruskin Bond, Babur, and many others.
Reading such varied viewpoints within a short span can be overwhelming, leading to a whirlwind of thoughts. Comparing Vyasa's Delhi, Khushwant Singh's Delhi, and one's own perspective of Delhi might initially seem impossible to reconcile. Yet, after deep reflection, I realized the answer is both "No, and yes" – a paradox in itself.
Delhi's essence lies in its ability to embody contradictions, blending the ancient with the contemporary, the rich with the poor, the traditional with the modern. Each perspective adds a layer to the city's narrative, creating a complex tapestry of experiences and interpretations. Despite the apparent differences, there exists a common thread that ties these diverse views together – the ever-evolving, enigmatic spirit of Delhi.
In the chapter from "City Improbable" titled 'The Building of the Hall', Vyasa, the venerable sage who composed the Mahabharata, vividly describes the legendary city of Indraprastha. The imagery he conjures is reminiscent of a fairy tale – with golden pillars, walls adorned with precious gems, and flowers resembling pearls. What intrigued me most was the reverence placed upon the construction of this hall. It was treated as almost sacred, with substantial donations made both before and after its completion. Reflecting on 'The Building of the Hall', I wondered, "If Indraprastha hadn't been so enchantingly beautiful, perhaps the Mahabharata War wouldn't have unfolded?"
In 'In a Paradise of Justice', Amir Khusrau's deep affection for Delhi shines through, evident in his prayers for the city's well-being.
"May it endure for ages to come!
For it is a heavenly paradise."
For it is a heavenly paradise The extract from Hasan Nizami's 'Taj-ul-Maasir' dating back to the early thirteenth century narrates the conquests of Qutbuddin Aibak, the first Sultan of Delhi, and sheds light on his plundering and destruction of Hindu temples in and around Delhi. Though the language used is archaic, the message is clear – Aibak's military campaigns and conquests were marked by the demolition of Hindu temples.
From this historical account, one can discern Aibak's deep fascination with Delhi, which was a central point of power and governance during that era. Nizami, like Aibak, was captivated by the city's allure and significance in shaping the political landscape of medieval India. Despite the violent episodes described in the text, both Aibak and Nizami were drawn to Delhi's prominence and historical importance, reflecting the complex dynamics of conquest, culture, and admiration in Indian history.
Ibn Battuta's vivid description of Delhi in his book, as part of "City Improbable," during the reign of Muhammad bin Tughlaq, provides a fascinating insight into the grandeur and complexity of the city. His depiction captures Delhi as a vast and magnificent metropolis, characterized by both beauty and strength, encircled by an unparalleled defensive wall. According to Ibn Battuta, Delhi was not only the largest city in India but also the largest in the entire Muslim world.
In his narrative, Ibn Battuta delves into the intricacies of daily life in Delhi and provides detailed accounts of the royal court under Muhammad bin Tughlaq. However, what stands out as particularly poignant is the forced relocation of the city's inhabitants to Dawlat Abad against their wishes. This historical event, where the population was compelled to leave their homes and resettle elsewhere, adds a chilling dimension to the narrative, highlighting the challenges and upheavals faced by the people of Delhi during that period.
Ibn Battuta's firsthand observations offer a valuable glimpse into the social, cultural, and political landscape of Delhi during the reign of Muhammad bin Tughlaq, showcasing both the splendor and the hardships experienced by its inhabitants
The book "City Improbable" offers a striking portrayal of Delhi's tumultuous history under various rulers, reflecting on the city's resilience amidst political upheavals and authoritarian regimes. Mohammed Bin Tughlaq, known for his whimsical rule, exemplifies this with drastic actions like forcing the entire population out of Delhi to appease himself. His unpredictable governance reflects a period where rulers often acted on personal desires rather than for the city's well-being.
Similarly, figures like Aurangzeb and Timur-I-Lang imposed strict regulations and inflicted damage upon Delhi, driven by their pursuit of power rather than genuine care for the city. Delhi endured destruction and resurrection repeatedly, its fate shaped by successive rulers seeking dominance.
The period between the decline of the Mughal Empire and British rule was marked by uncertainty and lawlessness, as depicted in accounts like "The Jungle." Delhi became a refuge for criminals and outlaws, highlighting the city's struggle during transitional phases.
Despite its turbulent past, Delhi's allure remains undeniable, drawing people in with its rich history and cultural heritage. Visitors like Emily Eden lament the impact of colonialism on Delhi's legacy, noting the city's transformation from a seat of power to a commercialized entity.
Delhi's ability to adapt and absorb the influences of different rulers reflects its unique character. As described by Perceval Landon, Delhi's historical significance transcends regional boundaries, symbolizing control over India itself.
In essence, Delhi emerges as a resilient survivor of centuries of conquests and upheavals, embodying the legacy of medieval endeavors while grappling with the complexities of modernity.
The chapter "The Building of New Delhi" in "City Improbable" by Sheela Bajaj explores the British planning of Delhi's reconstruction, emphasizing the deliberate selection of the site based on geographic advantages like altitude, drainage, and water availability. The planners envisioned this new city as a transformative project, aiming to modernize Delhi. However, according to Pavan K. Verma's excerpt "Shahjahanabad: the city that once was," the decision to build New Delhi in 1911 without integrating it with the old city of Shahjahanabad sealed the fate of the latter. Shahjahanabad, or Purani Dilli, was left isolated, metaphorically described as an aging courtesan abandoned by suitors, destined to decline.
Delhi's unique history of fragmented development, represented by its seven historical cities, reflects a trend where each ruler prioritized building for the future without integrating or preserving the past. The book offers diverse perspectives, including accounts by Khushwant Singh and Namita Gokhale, detailing the natural aspects of Delhi—its flora, fauna, and distinct seasonal changes.
The narrative also sheds light on marginalized communities like ragpickers and hijras (eunuchs), highlighting their essential yet often overlooked roles in the city's functioning and cultural fabric. These insights challenge conventional narratives and compel readers to reconsider their perceptions of Delhi's diverse inhabitants.
What sets this book apart is its unconventional structure, presenting a mosaic of viewpoints that initially appear disjointed but eventually coalesce to offer a profound understanding of Delhi's essence. It captures the city's raw, evolving nature—a phoenix rising from adversity, bearing scars of its tumultuous past yet exuding a magnetic allure that blends history, contemporary life, and aspirations for the future.
"City Improbable" doesn't merely describe Delhi; it invites readers to contemplate its multifaceted identity, encapsulating resilience, complexity, and the relentless spirit of a city in perpetual transformation.
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